What links Leonardo DiCaprio with your next dose of retail therapy? And what on earth has cyanide got to do with going shopping?
Remember the Leonardo Di Caprio movie 'Blood Diamond'? This was the adventure movie set amid the civil war of Sierra Leone that told the story of a an ex-mercenary played by DiCaprio and a fisherman who join forces to recover a rare pink diamond.
The movie wasn't just fiction. The story stemmed from the real-life trade in diamonds mined in war zones (mainly in Africa) and sold to finance conflict and profit brutal warlords. To stop diamonds fueling conflict, a worldwide certification system was set up to prevent these 'blood diamonds' from entering the mainstream rough diamond market.
Now when you're looking for diamond jewellery, you can make sure it's made using officially certified diamonds.
But what about other jewellery that uses materials such as gold, or even just fashion jewellery? Did the making of that beautiful necklace you've been thinking of buying involve the exploitation of child labour? How do you know that the substances used in your jewellery aren't harmful to the environment?
These are the sorts of questions that customers in Europe, the US and beyond are increasingly asking before purchasing their jewellery. And from this concern has arisen the ethical jewellery movement.
Let's take gold, for example. Designers and jewellery stores are now opting to use gold that's mined in a responsible way, without the use of highly damaging cyanide-leaching processes that can cause enormous environmental damage. This is increasingly becoming known as 'clean' gold. And you can find it used in all sorts of jewellery, from the most expensive pieces to fashion jewellery.
The same principles apply to other metals used in ethical jewellery. Metals are recycled or extracted from cooperatively-owned mines, and there are decent working conditions for jewellery makers. Other jewellery designers have started using sustainably-sourced materials, including natural seeds, wood offcuts, or discarded materials that can be re-fashioned into beautiful fair trade jewellery.
But there's something else that's really important. It's crucial that a piece of jewellery should be desirable in itself, not just because it's associated with a good cause. Ethical jewellery isn't about being ethnic, but about being stylish and desirable, as well as environmentally sound and non-exploitative.
Gone are the days when consumers were willing to buy a piece of jewellery out of charity or, even worse, pity for the producers. Now designers are saying, 'let's make ethical jewellery that's beautiful, affordable and ethical.'
And that means there's a great choice of ethical or fair trade jewellery out on the market to choose from, including expensive designer pieces made using 'clean' gold, or fashion jewellery that's fresh, funky and affordable.
From blood diamonds to 'clean' gold to fair trade, the rise of jewellery with a conscience is here to stay.
Nicholas Watson is an ethical jewellery designer and a jewellery trend spotter. He is also founder of the online fair trade store Jungle Berry.
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